If you’ve eaten sushi, read manga or sipped sake, you may consider yourself reasonably knowledgeable about this archipelago of around 6800 volcanic islands. Yet, from your moment of arrival in Japan, you’ll feel as if you’ve landed on an alien world. As you negotiate this fascinating land where ancient gods, customs and craftsmanship are mixed up with cutting edge modern technology, futuristic fashions and up-to-the-second style, don’t be surprised if you feel somewhat disorientated!
As high-speed trains whisk you from one end of the country to the other with awe-inspiring punctuality, you’ll catch sight of farmers tending their paddy fields, then in the next moment be whistling through the suburbs of a sprawling metropolis. Depending on what takes your fancy, you could be one day picking through fashions in a boutique designed by an award-winning architect, the next relaxing in an outdoor hot-spring pool, watching cherry blossom or snowflakes fall.
Over just a few generations, not many countries have experienced so much or made such an impact. With industrialisation in the late nineteenth century, Japan quickly shed its feudal trappings to become the most powerful and pugnacious country in Asia. However, having suffered defeat in World War II, it somehow transformed itself from nuclear victim to economic giant and envy of the world. After the decade-long recession from the mid-1990s, Japan is now relishing its “soft power” as the world’s primary purveyor of pop culture, with the visual mediums of anime and manga leading the way.
Japanese cities have high concentrations of people. These hyperactive metropolises are the place to catch the latest trend, the hippest fashions and must-have gadgets before they hit the rest of the world. It’s not just about about modernity, though: For example, Tokyo, Kyoto, Ōsaka and Kanazawa are the best places to experience traditional performance arts, such as kabuki and nō plays, as well as a wealth of Japanese visual arts in major museums. In the more rural quarters, there’s a vast range of travel options, from the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Shiretoko National Park in Hokkaidō to the balmy subtropical islands of Okinawa, and you’ll seldom have to go far to catch sight of a lofty castle, ancient temple or shrine, or locals celebrating at a colourful street festival.
As with all developed countries, Japan is not cheap to get to or to travel within, but it doesn’t have to be wildly expensive either. In fact, the more interesting and traditional Japanese places in which to stay or eat are often the best value. In particular, airline tickets have seen significant price-cutting recently and these now rival the famed bargain rail passes as a means to get to far-flung corners of the country.
Whilst the Japanese are experts at focusing on detail (the exquisite wrapping of gifts and the tantalizing presentation of food are just two examples), they often miss the bigger picture. Uncontrolled development and often dreadful pollution are difficult to reconcile to a place renowned for cleanliness and appreciation of nature. There’s no denying either the inexorable creep of mass tourism, with ranks of gift shops, ugly hotels and crowds often ruining potentially idyllic spots.
Yet, time and again, Japan redeems itself with unexpectedly beautiful landscapes, charmingly courteous people, and a tangible sense of history and cherished traditions. Few will be able to resist the chance to experience a culture that blurs the traditional boundaries between East and West – Japan is unique, neither wholly one nor the other.
Title Image Credit: Pedro Szekely (Image Cropped)