The 21-square-mile chunk of paradise that is Bermuda falls victim to a few misconceptions: one, that it’s in the Caribbean - it’s actually in the Atlantic; another, that it’s a single island, when it’s actually a chain of no less than 181! However, nobody will dispute Bermuda’s vast and varied history - it reaches back to the 16th century - nor the country's significance to maritime exploration.
Start in St George
To get an idea of how it all began, you could start on St. George’s island in the eastern city of St George. Although Bermuda was first discovered by Spanish conquistador Juan de Bermudez in the early 1500s, its most influential settlers were the British, who first landed here while sailing for Jamestown, Virginia. St George, settled in 1609, is a goldmine for history aficionados looking to learn about life in colonial Bermuda. It’s worth starting at the UNESCO World Heritage Centre, where you can get a general overview. Then look out for the quirky consignment shop attached to it, Second-Hand Rose, which exemplifies the juxtaposition of old and new and Bermuda's slightly oddball traditions.
Lovers of architecture will enjoy the stunning St. Peter’s Church, built in 1612, the roofless, haunting Gothic Unfinished Church, and Fort St. Catherine, the largest fort on the island, built in 1614. The Tucker House Museum offers a glimpse of St. George life in the 1750s. Adjacent to that lies Barber’s Alley, where freed black slave Joseph Rainey ran a barbershop during the American Civil War, going on to become the first African-American in the US House of Representatives. Also, look out for Bermuda’s African Diaspora Heritage Trail, which highlights the history of those of African descent in the Americas and the Caribbean. You’ll also want to stop by the Bermuda Perfumery, whose facilities and boutique are housed in an historically preserved house. Next, wander around the colourfully painted town, through its lovely English-style alleyways - Petticoat Lane, Printer’s Alley, Somers Garden and more. If you’re up for a bit of ghost-hunting, try a tour through St George’s Haunted History (hauntedhistorybda.com).
Stop by St David
To the south of St George lies the island of St David, whose cultural mishmash represents the diversity of Bermudian culture. The Carter House is a testament to the varied groups of people who settled here, exploring the history of the English, black West Indians, Spaniards, Portuguese, Native Americans and even Scottish and Irish prisoners of war. For most of the 20th century, nearby Cooper Island was occupied by NASA and the US military, and it’s only recently been reopened to the public as a pristine 12 acre nature reserve.
Check out bustling Hamilton
Hamilton has been the capital city since the early 19th century. It’s the centre of Bermudian commerce and is still home to many historic relics that are worthy of exploration. On your way into town from St George, stop at the millions-of-years-old Crystal Caves, a subterranean marvel discovered in 1907 when two little boys lost their cricket ball. From there, you can pop across to the Swizzle Inn, where potent rum swizzle punches are served up in a 17th-century abode.
There’s plenty more to discover in Hamilton, such as the National Library, City Hall, Arts Centre and the Bermuda National Gallery. Within walking distance are the Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and Fort Hamilton, both of which afford excellent views of Hamilton and the surrounding waters. For art lovers, Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art and the Bermuda Botanical Gardens are a must-see. All the art within the permanent and loaned collections has some connection to the islands; you’ll recognize names like Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keefe, but the museum features locally-based, lesser-known artists too, such as Graham Foster, whose sculpture of John Lennon stands outside. The museum’s lush, manicured botanical gardens are perfect for a midday stroll. Some of the best modern art in Bermuda can be found at the recently renovated Hamilton Princess, including artwork from Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst, and Nelson Mandela.
Explore the Royal Navy Dockyard
While making your way to the other end of the island chain, stop by Gibbs Lighthouse in Southampton, one of oldest cast-iron lighthouses in the world. There’s also Somerset Bridge, billed as ‘The World’s Smallest Working Drawbridge’, that connects Somerset Parish with Sandys Parish, measuring just 32 inches across. The Royal Navy Dockyard is the traditional place for ships to refuel and restock before setting off across the Atlantic. There are many tourist shops catering to the cruise ships that come into port here but the real draw is the National Museum of Bermuda, which also includes the Commissioner’s House. Its fascinating limestone buildings date back to the 19th century. Within their walls you’ll find various exhibits explaining Bermuda’s cultural relevance on a global scale. A mural by aforementioned artist Graham Foster adorns a back stairwell of the Commissioner’s House, providing an excellent and moving tribute to Bermuda’s centuries of history.
Where to Stay
If you fancy staying in St George, Aunt Nea’s Inn is an excellent B&B-style choice. The structure dates from the 1700s, but the rooms are updated with modern amenities. In centrally located Hamilton, try the Rosedon Hotel, where the verdant grounds include a pool, with afternoon tea served on the veranda. For something a little more geological, try the Grotto Bay Beach Hotel, where you can book spa treatments in their ancient private limestone cave enclosures.
Title Image Credit: kansasphoto (Image Cropped)