Some days Kandy’s skies seem perpetually bruised, with stubborn mist clinging to the hills surrounding the city’s beautiful centrepiece lake. Delicate hill-country breezes impel the mist to gently part, revealing colourful houses amid Kandy’s improbable forested halo. In the centre of town, three-wheelers careen around slippery corners, raising a soft spray that threatens the silk saris worn by local women. Here’s a city that looks good even when it’s raining.

And when the drizzle subsides, cobalt-blue skies reveal a city of imposing colonial-era and Kandyan architecture, none more impressive than the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of Buddhism's most sacred shrines.

History and culture are on tap. Yes, the city is renowned for the great Kandy Esala Perahera festival (held annually in July/August), but its vibrant cultural life and attractions more than justify a visit at any time of year.

Where to stay

There are dozens of hotels to choose from. Here’s a selection:

Kandy House

Thanks to masses of exotic tropical flora, the air you breathe at this divine hotel, once home to a Kandyan chief, literally tastes perfumed. Now fully restored, its nine rooms are furnished with colonial antiques. Service is courtesy of a butler who is assigned on arrival. An infinity pool segues to emerald-green rice paddies and eating here is a real highlight. Note: No children under 12 years of age.

The Clock Inn, Kandy

A very well-set-up hostel, with air-con dorms (with lockers, comfy bunks and reading lights) and lovely private doubles with en suites. They also offer wacky rooftop capsule-style tube-beds. There are ample lounging zones for socialising and it's located close to the railway station. With free WiFi throughout the property, the Clock Inn is just 700 metres from the holy Sri Dalada Maligawa and Kandy City Center Shopping Mall. Rooms have a private or shared bathroom and some have TV. There’s a 24-hour front desk, currency exchange facilities and luggage storage. The guest house also offers bike and car hire. Colombo International Airport is 84 km away.

Clove Villa

A superb converted villa with seven gorgeous rooms, all with plush furnishings and a dash of art. There's fine in-house dining, a billiard table and library. It's 5km north of the centre, and houses an outdoor pool, a restaurant and rooms with free Wi-Fi access. The Royal Botanical Gardens, Peradeniya is 12 km away, while the Bandaranaike International Airport is 103 km away. Rooms are air-conditioned and feature a flat-screen TV, an iPod dock and tea/coffee making amenities. The en suite bathroom comes with double sinks, shower facilities and toiletries. A personal safe, DVD player, iron and plug adapter are available on request. Guests can have a quiet read from the villa’s book collection, watch a movie from the DVD collection, or play a game of billiards. Tour arrangement, airport shuttle and luggage storage services are available. The poolside and terrace garden offer ideal dining spots.

Anna Shanthi Villa

Tucked away up a quiet lane, not far from the lake, this well-run guesthouse has seven rooms with good-quality furnishings and a lot more style than many similarly priced places. The standard of service is excellent, with staff going out of their way to help. A 2-minute walk from Kandy Lake, Anna Shanthi Villa offers basic air-conditioned rooms with a private bathroom. Free morning tea is offered, which guests can enjoy in the landscaped gardens or in the dining room. Anna Shanthi Villa is a 10-minute drive from Kandy City Centre and two and a half hours from Colombo International Airport. There is free parking on-site. The villa provides daily wake-up calls to rooms upon request. Daily newspapers are also available. Laundry and ironing services are provided by the hotel. Airport shuttles can be arranged at an extra charge.

Hotel Mango Garden

Manager Malik and his French wife run a tight ship here. Rooms are plain but spacious with good bedding, though the bathrooms are more prosaic. There's a lovely terrace restaurant for drinks and excellent meals (open to all). Call them for free pick-up from the bus or railway station. Located in the heart of the city overlooking lush greenery, Hotel Mango Garden is conveniently within 100 metres of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, Kandy City Center shopping mall and the renowned Kandy Lake. It offers free parking and free Wi-Fi access in its public areas. Featuring a balcony, comfortable rooms are fitted with a fan, tiled flooring, desk and a wardrobe. All rooms have access to the shared toilet and shared bathroom equipped with shower and free toiletries. At Hotel Mango Garden, guests can rent a car to explore the area or approach the tour desk for sightseeing activities and travel arrangements. Other conveniences include luggage storage, currency exchange and laundry services. The hotel houses a restaurant serving a selection of local and international cuisines. Guests can also enjoy meals in the comfort of their beds with room service. Mango Garden Hotel is just 2 km from Kandy Railway Station and Kandy Bus Station. The Royal Botanical Garden, Peradeniya is within 7 km, while Bandaranaike International Airport is approximately 100 km away.

Castle Hill Guest House

This place has beautiful gardens with views over the lake, town and distant mountain peaks. The guest rooms don’t quite live up to the high expectations that the gardens instil but they’re peaceful, well away from the tourist hustle and full of authentic 1930s architecture and decor. It also has some newer cabins out in the garden but these are grossly overpriced. A 10-minute walk from Kandy Town, Castle Hill Guest House is housed within a mansion surrounded by beautiful sloping gardens. Sri Lanka, Western and Eastern dishes are served in the common dining room. Basic rooms all come with a fan, cable TV and work desk. En suite bathrooms have hot-water showers. Castle Hill Guest House is 84 km from Bandaranaike International Airport. Free parking is available. Guests can enjoy a book or newspapers in the library. The guesthouse also provides luggage storage and laundry services.

Elephant Stables

This stunning villa was once the home of Sir Cudah Ratwatte, the first elected mayor of Kandy. Today, it's been lovingly converted into a beautiful hotel, with excellent service, earthy tones, polished concrete and gnarled wood. Two rooms have balconies overlooking an inviting pool and the not-so-distant mountains. There's a bar, and a reading room well stocked with Sri Lanka–related titles. Built in an ancient Colonial-period Bungalow, The Elephant Stables is a beautiful property overlooking Kandy’s lush greenery. It welcomes guests with an outdoor swimming pool and cosy guestrooms. This peaceful hotel is located within 4 km from Kandy Railway Station. Kandy City Centre and the popular Temple of Tooth Relic is only 2 km away while Bandaranaike International Airport is 103 km away. Fitted with hardwood floors and decorated in warm tones, air-conditioned rooms at Elephant Stables all feature a seating area, personal safe, minibar and TV. Bathrooms come with bathrobes, free toiletries and a hairdryer. Guests can unwind by the sun loungers or enjoy a good read at the library. Other facilities include a 24-hour front desk, laundry services and relaxing traditional massages. Travel arrangements can be made at the tour desk. Local Sri Lankan, Thai and Continental cuisines can be enjoyed at The Green Room restaurant.

Hotel Topaz

On top of Anniewatte Mountain overlooking the town, Topaz has 75 rooms, most with air-con, with good views from the bar and swimming pool. It provides a spa, a large outdoor pool and elegant accommodation, with free WiFi. All rooms come with a tea/coffee maker, a hairdryer and ironing facilities. They have luxurious bedding and large windows. Topaz Hotel features tennis courts, a fitness centre and an Ayurvedic centre where relaxing massages and body treatments are provided. For a fun evening with family and friends, there is a night club on site. The beautiful hotel is 1.5 km from the famous Temple of the Tooth and a 3-hour drive from Bandaranaike International Airport.

The Sharon Inn

This small hilltop place is one of Kandy’s longest-established hotels and it has excellent views and scrupulously clean rooms decorated with Sri Lankan arts and crafts. Don't miss the dinner buffet here, which is one of the best dining experiences in Kandy. Sharon Inn enjoys views of the Kandy Lake, a 10-minute walk from the historical Temple of the Tooth. It offers a dining area with Sri Lankan and Western dishes, free parking on site and free Wi-Fi access. Rooms have a balcony with views of Kandy and guests can request to have their dinner at the rooftop. Inn Sharon is a 3-hour drive from both Colombo City and the Colombo Airport.

Hotel Suisse

This is one of those grand old creaky colonial-era properties, with 90 huge rooms and a lakeside location. It has lots of old-fashioned charm but could do with a thorough renovation to bring back its glory years. There's a spa, gym, and great breakfast buffet, and good online discounts are often available. Suisse is housed in a colonial building, across Kandy Lake. Offering rooms with views of the tropical garden or Kandy Lake, it has a spa, a restaurant and free parking. The rooms feature classic wood furnishings and floral fabrics and are fitted with satellite TV and private bathrooms with hot/cold shower. Guests can lounge by the landscaped outdoor pool or enjoy a relaxing massage at the Ayurvedic Centre. Sauna facilities are also available. There is also a tour desk to assist guests with making travel and trips arrangements. Suisse Kandy’s restaurant serves a wide variety of Western and Asian dishes. Refreshing cocktails can be enjoyed at the beer bar. Colombo International Airport is located a 2.5-hour drive from the Suisse Hotel.

Title Image Credit: Arian Zwegers (Image Cropped)