Iceland presents us with both the hot and the cold, being one of the most active volcanic regions in the world, yet sitting just a smidgeon outside the Arctic Circle. It’s an exciting mix of magnificent glaciers, burbling hot springs and rugged fjords, where you might take in a good measure of history and literature before setting out for a midnight hike.
Iceland is a place where nature reigns supreme. With the exception of Reykjavík, the modern, cosmopolitan capital, its population centres are to be found along the coastal fringes, consisting of small towns, fishing villages, farms and minute hamlets. Inland, the country is completely uninhabited by humankind. Instead, it’s a starkly beautiful wilderness of ice fields, windswept upland plateaux, infertile lava and ash deserts and the frigid vastness of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. Iceland is located on the mid-Atlantic ridge and consequently, it is one of the most volcanically active landscapes on Earth. You’ll find everything from naturally occurring hot springs, scaldingly hot bubbling mud pools and noisy steam vents to a string of unpredictably violent volcanoes, which have regularly devastated huge parts of the country. It’s something that Icelanders have got used to. When the Eyjafjallajökull volcano erupted in 2010, causing havoc across Europe, people here just shrugged their shoulders and smiled.
Historically, Icelanders descend from Nordic and Celtic heritage, a characteristic that is often held responsible for their characteristically laid-back approach to life. The need to survive against the elements over the centuries has also made them highly self-reliant people, whose former dependence on the sea and fishing for their economy was virtually total. Being isolated in the North Atlantic also means that their island is frequently forgotten about – and Icelanders will tell you with some indignance about how often their country has been omitted from maps of Europe. However, even the most self-confident Icelander may initially come across as somewhat reserved – until Friday and Saturday nights roll around. Then, once the bjór starts to flow, even the most monosyllabic fisherman can become a lucid talk-show host.
Where To Go
Of course, most visitors get their first taste of Iceland at Reykjavík, rubbing shoulders with over half the country’s population. What Reykjavík lacks in size it more than makes up for with its stylish bars, restaurants and shops. The nightlife is every bit as wild as it’s cracked up to be: during the light summer nights, the city barely sleeps. Reykjavík also makes a good base for visiting Geysir, the original geyser, the ancient parliament site of Þingvellir, spectacular waterfalls at Gullfoss and the famous and sublime Blue Lagoon.
Beyond Reykjavík, Route 1 runs out to encircle the island, and the wilder side of Iceland soon shows itself. Vivid green spaces edged with unspoiled coastlines of red and black sand are set against a backdrop of brooding hills and mountains. The west coast is dominated by the towns of Borgarnes and Reykholt, which are strongly associated with the sagas. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula, with views of the monster glacier at its tip, is one of the country’s most accessible hiking destinations. However, Iceland’s most dramatic scenery is found in the far northwest of the country, the West Fjords, where tiny fishing villages nestle at the foot of table-top mountains. Ísafjörður is the only settlement of any size here and makes a good base from which to strike out on foot into the wilderness of the Hornstrandir Peninsula. Beautifully located on the north coast is Iceland’s second city, Akureyri. With a string of bars and restaurants, it can make a refreshing change from the small villages in this part of the island. From here it’s easy to reach the island of Grímsey, the only part of Icelandic territory actually within the Arctic Circle. The country’s biggest tourist attraction outside the capital is Lake Mývatn. It’s a favourite nesting place for many species of duck and waterfowl and is surrounded by an amazing amount of volcanic activity. Nearby Húsavík is one of the best places in the country to organize summer whale-watching cruises, while just inland, the wilds of Jökulsárgljúfur National Park offer superlative hiking along deep river gorges to the spectacular Dettifoss, Europe’s most powerful waterfall. To the south, Höfn is a good base from which to visit the Vatnajökull glacier, either on a skidoo trip or on foot through Skaftafell National Park. For a chance to glide alongside floating icebergs, visit the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon.
The south coast is marked by vast stretches of black, volcanic coastal sands punctuated by tiny villages. Iceland’s most rewarding hiking route can also be found here: the Laugavegur trail between hot-springs scenery at Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk’s lush green slopes, while just offshore from the south coast, the Westman Islands sport the world’s largest puffin colonies.
To explore the barren Interior, it’s best to join a guided tour, as it’s much easier to let experienced drivers of all-terrain buses pick their way across the lavafields unbridged rivers than to try it yourself.
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