For Westerners, Morocco holds an immediate and enduring fascination. Although it’s just an hour on the ferry from Spain, the country’s deeply traditional Islamic culture makes it feel distant and other-worldly. The presence of modern and cosmopolitan cities like Rabat and Casablanca does nothing to dispel the perception that a rich, distant past is waiting to be discovered. Fez, arguably the most beautiful of all Arab cities, is still rooted in medieval times, when the Moroccan kingdom stretched from Senegal to northern Spain, while in the mountains of the Atlas and the Rif, it’s still possible to draw up tribal maps of the Berber population. As a backdrop to all this, Morocco’s extraordinary topography spreads from the Mediterranean coast, through four mountain ranges, to the empty sand and scrub of the Sahara.
Throughout much of Morocco, the legacy of colonial occupation is still felt in many aspects of daily life. The Spanish zone contained Tetouan and the Rif, the Mediterranean and the northern Atlantic coasts, Sidi Ifni, the Tarfaya Strip and the Western Sahara; the French zone the plains and the main cities (Fez, Marrakesh, Casablanca and Rabat). While Ceuta and Melilla are still the territory of Spain, it is the French – who ruled their “protectorate” more closely – who had the most lasting effect on Moroccan culture, Europeanising the cities to a strong degree and firmly imposing their language, which is spoken today by all educated Moroccans.
This blend of the exotic and the familiar makes Morocco an intense and rewarding experience. It’s a country that is ideally suited to independent travel – given time, you can cover a whole range of activities, from hiking in the Atlas and relaxing at laidback Atlantic resorts like Asilah or Essaouira to getting lost in the back alleys of Fez and Marrakesh. However, despite this healthy tourist industry, Morocco is still severely poverty-stricken. Sometimes, being in the elevated position of tourist with disposable income can feel uncomfortable and you may receive unwanted attention, perhaps even harassment, from unofficial guides, but Morocco is essentially a safe and politically stable place. The death in 1999 of King Hassan II, the Arab world’s longest-serving leader, was followed by an easy transition to his son, Mohammed VI, and the country managed to carry on fairly much as normal while the Arab Spring uprisings toppled governments in nearby Libya, Tunisia and Egypt. Indeed, your lasting impression is likely to be overwhelmingly positive, shaped by encounters with Morocco’s powerful tradition of hospitality, generosity and openness, to the point where you will likely want to make many return visits
Where to go
Geographically, there are four basic zones: the coast (Mediterranean and Atlantic); the great cities of the plains; the Rif and Atlas mountains; and the oases and desert of the Sahara. Unless you have literally many months to spare, you can’t expect to cover all of this, though it’s not too difficult to enjoy a taster of each facet.
Generally, the coast is best enjoyed at Tangier, Asilah and Larache. In the south, at El Jadida, Essaouira, perhaps the most easy-going resort, or remote Sidi Ifni. Agadir, the main package-tour resort, is less rewarding – but a functional enough base for exploration.
Inland, where the real interest of Morocco lies, the outstanding cities are Fez and Marrakesh. These great imperial capitals of the country’s various dynasties are almost unique in the Arab world for the opportunity to witness city life that, to all intents and purposes, is still largely medieval in its patterns and appearance. For monuments, Fez is the highlight but Marrakesh is the one that most visitors find more enjoyable.
Travel in the south is generally the easier and more relaxing experience. This is certainly true of the mountain ranges. While the Rif can feel somewhat hostile, the southerly Atlas ranges that cut right across the interior are beautiful and accessible. Hiking in the High Atlas, especially around North Africa’s highest mountain, Jebel Toubkal, is increasingly popular, following old mule paths through mud-brick villages or tackling some of the impressive peaks. Summer treks are possible at all levels of experience and altitude and, despite some commercialisation, the area remains largely unspoilt.
Beyond the Atlas lie the oases of the pre-Sahara. Major routes here can be travelled by bus, minor ones by rented car or local taxi and the remote ones by 4WD vehicles or by getting lifts on local produce and livestock trucks. The oases, around Tinghir, Zagora and Erfoud, or (if you’re really determined) Tata and Figuig, are classic images of the Arab world, with their huge palmeries stretching to the desert horizon. Equally memorable are the wierd and wonderful pisé (mud) kasbahs and ksour, with their Gothic-looking turrets and patterned walls.
Further south, you can follow a route through the Western Sahara all the way down to Dakhla, just 22km short of the Tropic of Cancer, where the weather is scorching even in midwinter.
When to go
If you’re heading for the south, then as far as the climate goes, it is better to go outside of midsummer, otherwise it will be far too hot for casual exploration, especially if you’re dependent on public transport. July and August are the hottest months, when it can be wonderful on the coast. In the mountains, there are no set rules.
Spring, which doesn’t arrive until April/May, is probably the best time generally, as you’ll get a summer climate in the south and in the mountains, as well as on the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts. During winter, it can be perfect in the southern daytime, though desert nights can get very cold – important to bear in mind if you’re staying in the cheaper hotels, which rarely have heating.
Title Image Credit: Xiquinho Silva (Image Cropped)