Standing in Kraków’s Old Town with a glass of cherry vodka in one hand and a hot kielbasa (smoked sausage) in the other, listening to joyful Christmas carols competing with the sound of church bells, even Scrooge might find himself joining in with the spirit of Christmas.
Christmas markets originated in medieval Germany, when people would come out to stock up on supplies to get them through the bitter winter months. Over time, these open-air markets attracted local craftsmen who would bring toys and ornaments to sell as Christmas gifts. The earliest Christmas market is claimed to have taken place in 1434, in Dresden, although this is hotly contested by several other central European cities.
Kraków has been at the crossroads of Europe’s major trading routes for most of the last millennium. It has a long tradition of markets throughout the year and they play an important part in the city’s cultural calendar. Their Christmas market is now the largest and most eagerly anticipated, and it’s a major tourist attraction for visitors from across Europe. Nowadays, every major European town and city hosts a Christmas market. Kraków's takes place in the stunning Rynek Główny (main market square), which can surely lay claim to being one of the most enchanting settings. Rynek Główny is the largest medieval town square in Europe and one of the finest urban designs of its kind. Its layout, based on that of a castrum (Roman military camp), was designed in 1257 and has been retained to this day, though the buildings have changed substantially over the centuries.
Every year the Rynek Główny is transformed as the square is lined with about 80 wooden stalls. Locals and visitors stock up on gifts and handicrafts ranging from hand-painted baubles, intricate wooden cribs and traditional Christmas costumes to painted glass, jewellery, furs and tablecloths. As with any good market the aroma of hot food is everywhere. Pierogi (stuffed dumplings), bigos (a cabbage and pork stew) and hot soup provide warming sustenance, while the ubiquitous mulled wine is complemented by a Polish option of cherry vodka, guaranteed to bring inner warmth on even the coldest December night. For Christmas stocking-fillers, there’s a wide selection of cakes, sausages, cheeses and local gingerbread.
A traditional religious theme runs through the market, with carols sung by local choirs and school groups. Children line up to meet St. Nicholas, the 4th-century Greek bishop and inspiration for the modern-day Santa Claus. Dressed in his familiar red and white suit he also carries a bishop’s crook, in a nod to his pre-commercial roots.
For a change of scene, beneath the square, literally carved out from the subterranean rock, lies the Rynek Underground, Krakow’s long-awaited history museum, which finally opened in 2010. Visitors can buy a ticket for a timed slot. You must book online at least a day in advance or go to the ticket office hidden away at the rear of the Sukiennce (Cloth Hall) the day before.
The 2016 Christmas Market in Kraków runs from November 25 to December 26. Flights go from Gatwick with Easyjet, from about £150 return per person.