Things to do
Iglesia de San Nicolás
This single-naved church was reopened to the public after a magnificent restoration. Over the original Gothic vaulting, the ceiling is a painted baroque riot. The altarpiece is in similar style, with corkscrew (solomonic) columns framing the twin saints who share the church: San Nicolás saving boys from the pickling tub, and San Pedro Mártir with a cutlass in his head.
If baroque isn't your thing, you'll find some more sober pieces around the church, with Renaissance altarpieces by Juan de Juanes on either side of the altar and a Calvary that he completed together with his father Vicente Macip on the right. At the back of the church is another crucifixion scene, a fine late Gothic altarpiece by Rodrigo de Osona.
La Lonja
This Unesco World Heritage site was originally Valencia’s silk and commodity exchange, built in the late 15th century when the city was booming. It's one of Spain's finest examples of a civil Gothic building. Two main structures flank a citrus-studded courtyard: the magnificent Sala de Contratación, a cathedral of commerce with soaring twisted pillars, and the Consulado del Mar, where a maritime tribunal sat. The top floor boasts a stunning coffered ceiling brought here from another building.
It's worth getting the audio guide as there's almost no printed information. The exterior (covered by the audio guide) also merits examination.
Museo de Bellas Artes
Bright and spacious, this gallery ranks among Spain’s best. Highlights include a collection of magnificent late-medieval altarpieces, and works by several Spanish masters, including some great Goya portraits, a haunting Velázquez self-portrait, an El Greco John the Baptist and works by Murillos, Riberas and the Ribaltas, father and son. Downstairs, an excellent series of rooms focuses on the great, versatile Valencian painter Joaquín Sorolla (1863–1923), who, at his best, seemed to capture the spirit of an age through sensitive portraiture.
Where to Eat
La Salvaora
Refined, elegant but not expensive, La Salvaora is decorated with black-and-white portraits of flamenco stars. The menu of Spanish favourites – beef cheek, bull tail, ham, croquettes – looks familiar, but modern presentation and exquisite quality soon prove this is no ordinary tasca. Exceptional value for this standard; the tapas degustation menu is a steal.
El Poblet
This upstairs restaurant offers elegance and fine gastronomic dining at prices that are very competitive for this quality. Modern French and Spanish influences combine to create sumptuous degustation menus. Some of the imaginative presentation has to be seen to be believed. Staff are genuinely welcoming and helpful.
Bar Ricardo
Ice-cold beer and a fabulous array of tapas and other dishes characterise this gloriously traditional place with its old-style mezzanine and pleasant terrace. Snails, top-quality seafood and many other delights await you. The kitchen is open all day, so it's a good spot for eating outside of normal Spanish hours.
Entrevins
With a quiet, restrained elegance, this upstairs restaurant makes a lovely lunchtime retreat from the bustle of the street and is handy for several nearby sights. Grab a window table to watch the passers-by below and enjoy the seriously tasty food. The lunchtime set menu (weekdays only) is top value for this quality and includes two shared starters.
Cinnamon
This space is so tiny, you wonder how it prepares anything more elaborate than a poached egg. However, wonders emerge from the open kitchen, dishes bursting with taste and freshness. Creative plates include the crunchy house salad, a fab daily special and good options for vegetarians.
Refugio
Named after the civil-war hideout opposite and simply decorated in whitewashed brick, Refugio preserves some of the Carmen barrio's former revolutionary spirit. Excellent Med-fusion cuisine is presented in lunchtime menus of surprising quality: there are some stellar plates on show, though the veggie options aren't always quite as flavoursome. Evening dining is high quality and innovative.
Bodega Casa Montaña
One of Valencia's most characterful spots, with venerable barrels and an atmosphere from another era, this place has been around since 1836. There's a superb, changing selection of wines and a long list of exquisite tapas, including many seafood conserves.
La Vida es Bella
The front terrace or back garden of this innovative spot make great places to relax and absorb Benimaclet life with a beer or bite. More house than restaurant, it exudes a casual charm and heartening enthusiasm. The food is cheerful and presented with a flourish. Burgers, salads and sartenes (pan-fried combinations) are all delicious and great value.
Sólo del Mar
A great lunch option when visiting the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, this innovative place in a residential complex is a fishmonger that doubles as a restaurant and tapas bar at mealtimes. The seafood is of excellent quality, simply and deliciously prepared at very fair prices. There's no menu - just ask for recommendations.
La Gallineta
This welcoming contemporary space has a short, quality menu of dishes inspired by what's fresh at the moment. It's intimate and luminous. Lunches are great value and breakfast tostadas are a fine way to start the day.
Title Image Credit: Nicolas Vollmer (Image Cropped)